Posts tagged “Demon

Pierre Gagnaire in town – Champignon of Molecular Gastronomy

I’m not a fan of celebrity chefs who lend their name to restaurants and just design the odd menu rather than being in the kitchen to oversee the cuisine (unless the chefs you leave in change have the brillance of Angela Hartnett or Markus Waring).  So, I tend to only go when the chef themselves in town.  Aren’t we lucky that Pierre can spare us a full five days?!

End of July is the time to get thee down to Pierre at the Mando.  Pierre Gagnaire will be overseeing his restaurant between Tuesday 28th July to Saturday 1st August.

New 8 course “Legumes” degustation menu at HK$1,288 per person.

Call the Mando to book: +852 2825 4001

Pierre Gagnaire is truly an incredible chef  – it is he who is the long term collaborator of Herve This, the chemist who first coined the phrase Molecular Gastronomy, and has influenced such greats as Ferran Adria of el Bulli, Heston Blumenthal of the Fat Duck and even our own Demon Chef of Bo Innovation.

If you are a foodie, you really should take up this opportunity.

Where is the truly original, Modern Thai restaurant in Bangkok?

As you’ll know I can be a bit agressive when it comes to reviewing restaurants. Mahanaga was getting rave reviews last year and was meant to be the next big thing in modern Thai cuisine.

We spoke to a concierge at the Peninsula, and a couple of Thai friends in Bangkok, and the resounding opinion was – nice decor, food ain’t much.  More Asian-confusion than modern Thai, so we swerved.

Come on Bangkok – we need a Demon Chef down in your city!  I love, love, love Thai food, especially Isaan.  Be bold, be creative, be focussed and create somewhere to blow my mind.

Bo Innovation – unique in Hong Kong

Review

Ah – a special occasion at last, and so to Bo Innovation.

I’d seen this restaurant when it was in Central near the FCC, but the one time I went to go I picked the day after the damn place had shut before moving to Wanchai behind The Pawn.

Then, I saw it on Bourdain and knew I had to go – I hadn’t realised that it was all this molecular stuff that Demon Chef was up to, and for those who put any store by the Michelin guide in HK, this restaurant thoroughly deseves it’s rating. It’s difficult to really pigeon-hole this restaurant.  It’s not Chinese, but I wouldn’t class it as fusion either. It’s just really unusual and I thoroughly enjoyed it.

Bo Innovation

Sat at the chef’s table and had the tasting menu, the stand-outs for me were:

Uni with dan dan noodles.  Really, really good, and the uni was super fresh.

Toro with foie gras powder and freeze dried raspberry – this really is a piece de resistance the toro was just melt in your mouth stuff, and then the foie gras powder added another rich rounded taste, coupled with the lovely berry tartness from the raspberry.  Don’t knock it til you try it.  Sublime.

Peat Shoot Cappucino with “har mi” crouton.  Just really sweet and lovely

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Molecular xiao long bao and lap mei fan.  The xiao long bao was so clever.  A little bubble of stock that tasted just like the dim sum should.

Cod with black bean, honey and pickled bak choy: The quality of the cod was fantastic.  The best black cod I’ve ever had (BH agreed)

Duck char siu, with foie gras.  Again super quality ingredients, amazingly tasty.

Wagyu fat choi hotpot:  this was wagyu beef cheek, done like a true french pot au feu, breathtakingly simple with the clearest of stock, the sweetest of veg beautifully al dente and the fat in the cheek had turned to jelly which made it positively orgasmic.  Truly a masterpiece.

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Dessert – had 3 or four little deserts  – all fun/molecular and tiny.

So basically 8 out of the 10 courses were stella, and the other couple were still very good.

We washed all this down with a bottle of pink Ruinart champagne which surprisingly worked really well with the entire menu, give it a go.

Price: Dinner was $1080 each for the menu so with champagne, service and tip I spent exactly $4000.  Worth every penny, would go once a week if I had the cash.

Ambience: fantastic experience sitting chatting to Demon Chef and his workers, great space with high roof and an outside terrace.  Upbeat vibe because the kitchen is open and people are excited about the food.

Location: 2F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Road, Wanchai (same building as The Pawn and Ovo Lounge, but entrance round the corner). Website

If you are a foodie you have to go to this restaurant – no other home grown Hongkee chef is doing this in the territory.